Creation Process

There are approximately 16 steps that each piece of jewelry may go through and an explanation of what that process entails. Once the Wax is approved individual pieces of jewelry are cast in groups, or batches in order to facilitate the production process. Not every job goes through every step below, (i.e. not every piece of jewelry is inlayed) but the chart below will give you an idea of what steps each piece of jewelry goes through.

  1. Stone Approval: Reviewing & choosing a Gemstone or Stone Approval by Mail: Gemstone is mailed to Clint for approval. This is the very first step, and, as in all beginning steps, dictates the eventual final "Look" of the piece.

  2. Design: Penny works her magic creating wax designs. She usually creates 3 original versions for our Client's to choose from. This process is extremely time consuming. Several days are spent on this crucial step.

  3. Wax Appointment: Once the original wax designs are complete they are presented to the Client for their approval. This is when any desired style changes are made. In most cases this is done while the Client is present. Most often these are very minor changes. i.e. changing the length of a diamond channel, or increasing the size of the channel to accommodate larger diamonds.

  4. Casting Preparation: Final stone fitting and adjustments to wax, This step is extremely tedious and on most cases occasionally takes more time than the initial wax design. Approximately 1 -2 full days of Penny's time.

  5. Investing and Burnout: The waxes are placed into a crucible filled with plaster of paris type material, which is allowed to harden. This crucible is places in a industrial furnace for 12-16 hours which burns out the wax designs and leaves hollow voids in the investment.

  6.  Rough Out: During the casting process, a "skin" is formed on the outside of each cast piece. This needs to be removed prior to primary polishing using a rough metal file.

  7. Primary Polishing: Removal of major surface imperfections caused during casting or during Rough-Out.

  8. Melee Diamond Setting: The small diamonds are set. This step  is extremely tedious and exactly the same as setting a large stone except it is done many times over and over.

  9.  Inlay: Any inlay required is done at this point.

  10. Setting Major Gemstone or Diamond: The seat (or grove in the inside of the setting that mirrors the girdle of the stone where the main stone will be set) is cut and meticulous fitting is completed. A tool called a hand piece hammer is used. It resembles a pneumatic jack hammer, but is the size of a large fountain pen.

  11. Secondary Polishing: A light overall polishing to remove any tool marks created during the setting process.

  12. Lapping: A highly specialized type of polishing machine that places the mirror finishes on our jewelry. This machine is very difficult to use, but the results in the hands of a skilled craftsman are remarkable

  13. Texturing: At this stage any secondary surface finishes are applied ( sandblasting, brushing, etc. )

  14. Final Polishing: Overall review of piece and removal of any minor scratches.

  15. Ultrasonic & High Pressure Steam Cleaning: While in most cases cleaning is done between most steps, this is the final cleaning.

  16. Surfacing: Rhodium is applied to all white gold pieces.

  17. Final Cleaning and overall quality review of item.


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