Pearls

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Pearls: Gems of the Sea

Pearls Set the Mood:

The soft luster and shifting subtle colors of pearls give them a unique quality. They can be slinky and sexy, modest and demure, lavish and elegant, or cool and sophisticated. Pearls are not radiant, but wearing them imparts radiance. They wrap neck, shoulders, face, and hands in a soft halo, making complexions and skin tones come alive.

How Pearls are Formed:

Pearls owe their beauty to the creative force of nature and the pearl oyster. When a foreign substance (such as a grain of sand) enters the creature's shell, the oyster's body takes defensive action to ease the irritation. It begins to secrete a smooth, hard substance called nacre upon the irritant. Layer upon layer of nacre builds up around the irritant to form - after several years - a lovely, natural pearl. Cultured pearls are formed by pearl oysters in much the same way as natural pearls. The only difference is that human hands implant the irritant in the oyster, then step aside to let nature create its miracle.

The Question of Quality:

No two pearls are exactly alike. They are found in a range of qualities and are judged by their luster, surface appearance, size, shape, color and nacre thickness.

  • Luster - This is the mirror like surface reflection seen on a pearl. It is luster which makes pearls uniquely beautiful in the gem world.
  • Surface Appearance - The smoother the surface and the fewer the blemishes present, the more valuable the pearl.
  • Size - Other factors being equal, the larger the pearl, the more value it has.
  • Color - Color is the combination of body color and overtone. Body color is the predominant color of the pearl. The most commonly seen body colors are white, cream, rose and pale yellow. Overtone is a tone of another color superimposed on the body color of some pearls, and can be likened to blush in makeup. Rarely, one can also find orient on pearls. This is the appearance of iridescent colors providing a rainbow effect.
  • Nacre Thickness - An important factor in the durability of the cultured pearl is the thickness of the nacre around the original irritant. The longer the pearl remains in the oyster the more nacre is secreted and hence the more luster the pearl has.

Types of Pearls:

  • Freshwater cultured pearls - are irregular in shape and are available in a variety of colors. They are especially in vogue today, because they are a dramatic, yet affordable fashion item that can be worn with any outfit for any occasion. Freshwater cultured pearls come from pearl oysters that live in freshwater lakes and streams, particularly in China and Japan. Biwa is the name given to freshwater pearls grown only in Japan's Lake Biwa.
  • Akoya - the most familiar type of cultured pearls and they are grown in Japan. Generally round in shape, these saltwater cultured pearls have a classic elegance popular with every generation, especially new brides.
  • Mabe - refers to a half round pearl (with a flat back) which has grown against the inside shell of an oyster. It is usually mounted in closed back settings. Mabes are especially popular in earrings, pendants and rings.
  • South Sea Cultured Pearls - are from the salt waters of the South Pacific. The pearl-producing oysters which inhabit these waters are much larger than those found around Japan and the waters are warmer as well. Thus, larger, more impressive pearls are formed. South sea pearls are understandably the most prized of the cultured pearl types.
  • Natural or "Oriental" Pearls - are formed by the accidental natural process described earlier. Such pearls are occasionally found in the Persian Gulf and the Indian Ocean.

Pearl Fashion:

Pearls are a timeless favorite and are versatile enough to fit in with any outfit from sportswear to formal dress. A uniform or graduated strand of round pearls is the classic pearl look. They, or freshwater pearls, may also be strung with colored gemstones or beads. Long single strands of white or cream pearls may be twisted with pearls that have been treated to achieve a variety of colors such as peach, lavender, pink, black or gray. Your pearl wardrobe might include pendants, bracelets, rings, earrings, stick pins and brooches incorporating round, irregular shaped, freshwater or saltwater cultured pearls to produce exciting, unique pieces of jewelry.

Caring for your Pearls:

Cultured pearls are precious jewels that should be treated gently. Always store them separately from other jewelry, wrapped in cloth or tissue or placed in a little pouch. To protect their luster, never let your pearls come in contact with cosmetics, hairsprays and perfumes. It's best to put your pearls on last. After each wearing, they should be wiped with a soft cloth to remove dirt and perspiration. Pearls may be washed in mild soap and water, then rinsed and allowed to air dry naturally. Most jewelry cleaning solutions are not suitable for pearls because they contain ammonia, so be cautious.

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Last modified: November 20, 2009